“You want to determine what to focus on in the frame yourself instead of letting the camera choose,” says photographer Khara Plicanic. And turn off your autofocus point selection. Try focusing on different parts of your subject, snapping pictures and seeing how everything comes out. Try taking shots of your subject from different distances and with the subject at varying distances from their surroundings, to see how it changes the bokeh your lens produces.įocus: What you choose as your focal point will alter the focal plane. Positioning: Proximity of your camera to your subject and of your subject to their background will all affect bokeh. Experiment with those f-stops and see what you come up with. Experiment with f-stops in relation to shutter speed to see how your bokeh shifts and changes.Īperture: The main mover and shaker for bokeh is going to be the depth of field you create with your aperture settings. As you open up the aperture of your camera, you can increase the shutter speed to get crisper images. It’s measured in seconds, so a fast shutter speed might be 1/1,000 of a second versus a slow speed of a second. Shutter speed: Shutter speed determines how long the shutter on your camera remains open to allow light to hit the film in your camera or its digital sensor.
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How shutter speed, aperture and positioning affect bokeh.įor your experimentation, start with a well-lit, static object, like a bowl of fruit and take trial shots to help you to figure out how to create the bokeh you want to see: If more bokeh is your aim, consider a lens focal length of 70 mm and higher. Longer focal lengths - whether in zoom or prime lenses - can help you to maximise bokeh. For maximum bokeh, you want lenses that have the ability to stop to 1.2 or 1.4. For creating beautiful images with high-quality bokeh, you’ll want lenses that have low f-stops.
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